Saturday, 26 May 2012

CORSICA

                                        CORSICA



The Route de Bavella is a highly scenic mountain road leading inland from the east coast.  The seven towering granite pinnacles of the Aiguilles (Needles) de Bavella lie at the foot of the Monte Incudine massif and are visible for a great distance.  Wildflowers line the road in spring including cyclamen and hellebore and pine forest covers the hills





Zonza, one of the prettiest villages in the Alta Roca, sits at the foot of the Aiguilles.  Chestnut beer is a new taste sensation in these parts and we were happy to try it!


Prehistoric Corsica was an island whose prehistoric populations were extremely dynamic.  The most active period of these cultures began in the Neolithic era around 6000BC.  During this time, these populations became more settled, lived on raising livestock and began to build their dwellings with dry walls, often fortifying them.
The Pianu de Levie is a fairy tale woodland of twisted oaks and mossy boulders 


The major archaological site here is Cucuruzzu, a well preserved Torreen casteddu dating from around 1400BC and complete with living chambers, fireplaces, inner stairways and slab roofs.  Some of the blocks which make up the walls weigh more than one tonne.




                                    Corsican salamander




A second site, A Capula, lies 20 minutes walk away through the woods and was occupied until 1259. 


                                               Filitosa

The most famous prehistoric site in Corsica offers almost 5000 years of history and the site is filled with large constructions and menhirs from 1800 to 1100BC.  It was here that one of the most significant alignments of anthropomorphic menhirs was found.  Details of the faces, weapons and helmets of ancient warriors are still clearly visible on these rocks. 


Statue menhirs from the central monument at Filitosa.  The people who occupied this site lived exclusively from hunting, fishing and gathering and may have possessed sheep.  Bronze age huts were later built on the Neolithic levels



The region of Sartene has more than 500 prehistoric sites and include the alignment of Stantari and Fontanaccia, the island's best preserved dolmen.


                                



                                 Alignement d'l Stantari


                                    Tyrrhenian wall lizard


The medieval town of Bonifacio was built on a striking limestone promontory in 828 by Bonifacio, Marquis of Tuscany and for three centuries it lived on fishing and piracy.  Although it fell under French rule in the 18th century, it has retained an Italian flavour.


The heart of Bonifacio is the haute ville which perches on the promontory high above the fjord like inlet which forms the harbour



The ascent to the Casteddu de Araghju is steep and difficult but the massive fortress standing on a rocky spur offers a splendid view out towards Sardinia.  The walls are about 4 m high and 2m thick and the megalithic complex inside the fortifications consists of a series of rooms which served as living quarters, kitchen and storerooms.






Laricio pines are very tall and long lived with some reaching 800 years old.  In the past they were used in ship building



The gite in Piazzole, a perched village in La Castagniccea, was formerly the village bakery.  A huge oven still occupies a corner of the main room and chestnut flour would be ground here and baked as bread.







A large deck had been added recently which offered a spacious outdoor living space with views over the chestnut forest to villages along the far side of the valley.  We climbed the mountain behind the village where wild sanglier lived in the chestnut forest and were hunted in the autumn months.  The view back down the valley to Piazzole was wonderful.






                                     Columbine and ancient chestnut tree

                              The village church at Piazzole
















The Vallee de l'Asco which runs for 30km from Ponte Leccia is one of the most isolated areas in Corsica.  The road follows the River Asco up towards Corsica's most striking range of mountains which is dominated by Monte Cinto, the highest peak on the island at 2,706m. 



The Citadelle of Corte was already fortified before the Genoese conquest in the 13th century and was transformed into a true fortress in 1419.  After many years of foreign rule, the Citadelle became the symbol of the islander's struggle for independence.  when the French took control of Corsica in 1769, it became a military zone.








The giant rock formations known as the Calanques de Piana feature amazing colourchanges from gold to pink to bright red depending on the time of day.  The wind and water have sculpted the granite rock creating cavities known as tafoni, which means a large hole in Corsican, and other intriguing formations





                                         Sant Antonino


This hilltop village affords a magnificent view from the snow capped mountains to the sea.  It is laid out in a circle and was an impregnable fortress which took in the entire valley population when Saracen pirate ships appeared on the horizon.  The alleys, steps and passage ways are steep, narrow and for pedestrians only



                                                Pigna


                                 The old village wash house



This thriving hamlet has retained its medieval character with narrow alleys and vaulted passageways.  Pigna has become famous as a centre for traditional Corsican music.  Lunch on the terrace at the Casa Musicale was a treat and this small restaurant/hotel has become a centre for safeguarding the island's traditions.  In the village workshops, musical instruments including various types of cittern are made.


                                   San Michele de Murato


This 13th century church is one of the best examples of Pisan Romanesque architecture on the island.  The materials used were white limestone and green serpentine and the consoles and cornices of the small windows have bas-reliefs with animal and plant motifs as well as allegorical scenes such as Eve taking the forbidden fruit or the Lamb attacked by other animals.





                                             NONZA

The statue of St Julie, one of Corsica's patron saints, in the church of the same name built in the 16th century.  According to legend, this young girl was crucified by a Roman prefect after refusing to take part in pagan revelry.




An 18th century green schist tower built by Paoli crowns the hill above Nonza.  Along the road there are many mortuary chapels and mausoleums belonging to Corsican families who emigrated to find their fortunes and returned rich enough to have elaborate tombs built for themselves

U Nativu, a megalithic menhir in the village of Patrimonio in the heart of the Nebbio region, one of the island's main wine producing centres 


The Genoese rulers built a series of 67 coastline towers in the 16th century along the entire perimeter of the island.  Built to spot pirates and often to afford refuge for villagers, this one at Erbalunga is typical of the design.  Nelson later copied the design when erecting Martello towers around the coastline of England 


                                              BASTIA



Bastia is the second largest city in Corsica and origianlly founded by the Romans.  In the 15th century, the Genoese began to construct a tower and enlarge the fortress that protected the port (bastiglia in Italian hence the name of the city)

The Citadelle is an impressive structure surrounded by the original ramparts.  After decades of neglect, a restoration campaign was initiated in the 1980's and buildings regained the original pastel colours typical of Ligurian tradition 

A Genoese tower protects the small harbour of Erbalunga which is lined with old stone houses and fish restaurants.  Sumptuous mansions, known as Maisons d'Americains, are found here and in many other locations around Cap Corse.  These were built by Corsicans who had returned home wealthy after emigrating to Latin America

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