COSTA RICA

COSTA RICA

 

ARENAL VOLCANO

Costa Rica is a country with over one hundred volcanoes which disbanded its army in 1948, the president of the time  famously declaring that the money saved would be spent on education.  Literacy is 98%, one of the highest rates in Latin America.

BLUE CROWNED MOTMOT

Costa Rica is famous for the number and diversity of fauna and flora.  It has over 600 resident birds and many more migrants,  The blue crowned motmot was one of the first birds we saw in the delightful gardens of the Hotel Bougainvillea outside San Jose

                           THE CLAY COLOURED ROBIN

The clay coloured robin (actually a member  of the thrush family) is the national bird of Costa Rica.  It is very common and farmers would listen for it's mating call in May before planting their crops

After a good breakfast and with the rain still pouring down we set off for the Monteverde cloud forest.  A group of 11 families of Quakers from Alabama settled in this remote area during the 50's since their pacifist beliefs prevented them from serving in the US military during the Korean war.  They chose Costa Rica because it does not have an army and they felt free to pursue their life of dairy farming here.  Many visitors come to the area to see the abundant bird life but the Quakers have a deliberate policy of keeping the final steep and winding 25km of the road unpaved to reduce numbers and prevent coach tours of day trippers who would not benefit the community economically. Due to the heavy rain it was very muddy and precarious with numerous landslides and many alarming drops into the valley below.  Our accommodation at the Cloud Forest Lodge was fairly basic but in a wonderful position and we were able to spot lots of birds from our verandah including a spectacular Keel billed toucan.  At breakfast two types of humming birds could be seen hovering around the feeders.

VIOLET SABRE WING HUMMINGBIRD

GREEN HUMMINGBIRD

These two hummingbirds (photos courtesy of Wikipedia as I'm not quick enough!) lived in the tree outside the window of the restaurant at the Cloud Forest Lodge, basic accommodation in a wonderful location with a wide variety of bird species to be seen at all times of the day and the odd owl and lots of bats at night.

THE MONTEVERDE RAINFOREST PRESERVE

The Quakers are committed to conservation and resident Wilford Guindon and biologist George Powell set up the Monteverde Preserve in 1972 which covers four different zones and 9941 acres.   We spent the morning walking on a 7km track around the park in the rain which meant that most of the birds remained hidden although we did spot two black hawks at the lookout over the continental divide.  An agouti crossed the path but the jaguars, pumas and tapirs stayed well hidden!

The common busy lizzie plant found in hanging baskets everywhere growing in it's native habitat

Perhaps a rash decision in view of the steep and rutted state of the road but when no taxi appeared we settled for this contraption which managed quite well as long as we got out on the steep sections!

VINCENT UNDER THE VOLCANO

The Lomas del Volcan Lodge turned out to be a cut above our previous accommodation and was reached it after a hair raising journey down the heavily rutted road from Monteverde and the crossing of a lake, formed by damming of the Arunel river.  A short walk in the afternoon brought us to the top of the lava field left by the 1968 eruption which destroyed two villages and killed many people.  The volcano remains among the ten most active in the world but is no longer expelling lava although smoke can usually be seen.

GREEN IGUANA

A visit to the Cano Negro biodiversity area had been arranged for the next day and on the way to the river to board the boat we stopped by a bridge where a local restaurant owner provided vegetables for a large group of green iguanas.

MALE GREEN IGUANA

The trip on the Cano Negro river lasted for two hours and during that time we saw 15 new birds, snakes (tiger rat snakes) and three of the four species of monkey (howler, spider and white faced)

                               WHITE FACED MONKEY

                                    LONG NOSED BATS

There were also cayman, lizards, a sloth and bats.   The country has over 100 species of bats with three types of vampire bat among them.  These feed on cattle,horses and sometime poultry.

                            BASILISK OR JESUS LIZARD
                                (IT WALKS ON WATER!)

The guide for our Celeste river hike the next day seemed doubtful about our ability to complete the steep and muddy 7km climb to view the unique junction where the river, which rises from high on the           volcano meets another stream.  The chemical reaction of sulpher, aluminium and copper between the two causes the water to turn bright blue 

                                        ON THE TRACK

After three very comfortable days at the Lomas de Volcan Lodge, we travelled on to the Selva Verde Lodge and took a two hour guided tour in the afternoon.  Morning is by far the best time to see birds and we didn't see much until the end when a flock of twelve chestnut mandibilled toucans perch in a tall tree nearby as we were crossing the Sarapique river.

  It was easy to spot the two main species of frog the green and black and strawberry poison dart.

The following day was spent on a private guided tour of some of the tracks at the La Selva biological research station which is part of the organization for tropical studies supported by universities from many countries including Australia. It covers 3900 acres of tropical wet forest and is bordered by the 46,000 hectares of the Braulio Carrillo national park and is the core conservation unit of the Cordillera Volcanica Central Biosphere Reserve. This huge reserve descends from 2906 metres at the Volcan Barva to 36 metres above sea level at La Selva. It has 5000 species of plants of which 700 are trees and more than 400 species of birds, half the total for Costa Rica. The fauna is similarly diverse and includes several of the big cats - jaguars, pumas and ocelots not to mention tapirs, agoutis and the extraordinary sloth.

We had an excellent guide called Lenin (his father was a communist) who managed to spot dozens of new birds where we saw nothing. He was extemely knowledgable and managed to spot three of the very rare (less than 100 birds) great green macaw and an almost invisible vermiculated screech owl sleeping in dense undergrowth.  The macaws are large birds and have only two food sources, one of which is the mountain almond, heavily logged for its valuable hardwood.  Other birds seen are described on the bird post - Vincent has so many birds on his list and some great photos so we have made a new posting on the blog just for wildlife. The howler monkeys are beginning their morning chorus and it is time to walk beneath the covered walkway (well, it is rainforest) to the tree house restaurant for breakfast.

SELVA VERDE

Over breakfast we were talking to a young American naturalist who told us that the biggest reserve for wildlife was across the border in Nicaragua.  during the civil war in that country, landmines were placed throughout that area and as a consequence, people stayed away.  Big cats are found in significant numbers and the young animals often cross the river which forms the border in search of new territory.  This has caused problems for farmers who have lost stock and the conservationists are trying to introduce a new scheme to persuade farmers to include at least one Asian water buffalo in their herd.  The buffalo are relatively recently introduced, very protective of their herd and quite capable of defending it against animals such as jaguars and pumas.

                                RANCHO NATURALISTA

Today we move on to the Rancho Naturalista near the Turrialba volcano and the Pacuare River which is famous for whitewater rafting but I think I will give that one a miss as we have done with all opportunities for zip lining which seems to be all the rage. As we began the journey, thousands of vultures were massing to begin their migration to Colombia.  Turrialba is located at about 3000ft and the rich volcanic soil is ideal for growing coffee, sugar cane and macadamia among other crops.  It is very hilly and verdant and the lodge is located in an isolated spot above the valley.  We were amazed on arriving to see flocks of humming birds hovering around the feeders.  There are 30 varieties here in many different colours and sizes.  During lunch at least a dozen new species of birds came to the bird table to feed off the bananas.

  We have a wonderful view from our balcony down the valley and managed to spot at least a dozen new birds before breakfast!  We had arranged a walk with a guide during the morning and this went very well, lots of birds spotted and then, coiled up in the centre of the path with no intention of moving, a fer de lance.  This snake is extremely venomous and you have about an hour to get to hospital, not easy from the middle of a tropical jungle

FER DE LANCE

Rancho naturalista proved to be an outstanding lodge for watching birds and we saw over 40 species during our two day stay.  Many of these were seen from the balcony of our room in the trees or feeding posts.  Humming birds were present from morning to night in a variety of colours and sizes.  One of the highlights was seeing the sun bittern on a walk along the river.

SUN BITTERN

HUMMING BIRDS

We were told that the hermit humming bird feeds on a particular yellow heliconium in which the yellow hog nosed pit viper often waits to catch it.  People picking the flowers have also been bitten since the camaflage is so effective

WHITE CROWNED PARROT

Another long drive brought us back over the dividing range to the Pacific side and the cloud forest of San Gerado de Dota, an area famous for sightings of the resplendent quetzal bird.  A morning expedition resulted in the sighting of several females and juveniles and one wonderful male bird in full plumage

MALE QUETZAL

MORE QUETZALS

Thanks to Brooke

The food at Savegre was excellent and breakfast was accompanied by a great display of activity at the humming bird feeder and at the hollow tree inhabited by a family of acorn woodpeckers

Humming birds waiting for breakfast

At this point with a list of over 100 species sighted in Costa Rica, Vincent declared that he had seen enough birds to last a lifetime and after all, it had only been a casual interest anyway!!!!!!

Our journey down the the coast proved to be somewhat hair raising beginning with a descent from 7000 ft along the continental divide and down through the very misty cloud forest.  Once we reached the humid Pacific coast our driver made up for lost time by overtaking everything in sight until we arrived at the river port of Sierpe.  This rather seedy town was reminiscent of the wild west with launches being loaded for more remote river and coastal communities. 

 Our battered case was stowed aboard a flimsy looking fibreglass vessel and then, to my horror, 20 other passengers in varying states of inebriation clambered aboard.  The boat zoomed off, taking the curves of the river at speed to the delight of most of the passengers who soon produced a large bottle of tequila to fortify themselves.  A short cut through the mangroves proved the only respite as the boat slowed but one it reached the open sea the throttles were open and we bounced off over the waves.  The noise from the celebrating crowd was tremendous and at one point I fully expected them to start dancing.  At last we arrived at Punta Marenco, took off our boots and waded ashore.  The accommodation was geared to the tropics with 3 walls of netting and a great view over the forest to the ocean below.  During our stay we were treated to some spectacular views of humpback whales and frequent sightings of scarlet macaws, white faced monkeys and toucans.  On the first evening a terrific storm brought thunder and lightening and the most torrential rain I have ever seen.  The following morning we followed the guide Greiner gingerly down the muddy steps and into the jungle for a morning walk.

We were pleased that evening when company arrived in the shape of Ellen and Willie from Holland who proved to be great company over the next few days.

 We all set off the next day for Cano Island some 22 km offshore and a popular snorkelling spot.  After a picnic lunch we set off to find the ancient buriel ground used by pre-conquest indiginous tribes and marked by stone balls of varying sizes.  Sadly, many of these have been stolen or broken by people looking for buried gold ornaments and most of the remaining examples are now in the National Museum in San Jose. 

GRAVE MARKERS CANO ISLAND

The boat trip back was enlivened by the presence of spotted dolphins, brown boobies and frigate birds.  Scarlet macaws gathered noisily in groups in the tall trees and toucans perched near the restaurant

The final day brought yet another launch trip further up the coast to the Corcovardo national park, a huge reserve of mostly primary tropical rainforest.  Conditions were very muddy and the rain continued to fall but our cheap Piccadilly Circus umbrellas provided adequate shelter.

During the walk we saw more howler, white faced and spider monkeys plus a very inactive three toed sloth.  Our journey back brought the added excitement of humpback whales surfacing alarmingly close to the boat.  A small investment in infrastructure at Punto Marenco Lodge, especially upgrading the extremely slippery pathway from the beach would make a real difference but the staff were wonderful, the guides Greiner and Mario and the ever cheerful Jose who served the meals and created wonderful flower arrangements to grace the open air dining area and the cabins.

I don't think that we had many regrets on leaving and I grimly braced myself for another boat trip, wading out to the launch, lurching over the ocean, through the mangroves and, with tremendous relief, into the river and back to Sierpe. 

MANGROVE SWAMP

 The plane, when it finally arrived, proved to be a tiny single propeller powered flying machine but the flight was remarkably smooth and within 45 minutes we found ourselves back in San Jose.  Vincent was overjoyed to check into the extremely comfortable Dutch run Hotel Bougainvillea, set in acres of wonderful tropical garden.  We celebrated our return with a splendid lunch and the first bottle of wine in weeks, a Chilean cab sauv.

SOME OF THE 60 VARIATIES OF BROMELIADS

FOUND AT HOTEL BOUGAINVILLEA

Costa Rica has been a great experience, the staff at the lodges and the guides have all been first class.  Our bird count for the 16 days exceeded 120 species, almost all new to us.  Vincent has listed them with photos wherever possible on his seperate posting with links to further information if required.  I have added plants (sadly mostly unidentified and some animals.