THERE ends all
and does not end:
there it all begins:
say goodbye to the rivers on the ice,
the air has been married to the snow,
there are no streets or horses
and the only building
was built of stone.
No one lives in the castle
or the lost
cold, cold wind that
frightened:
there is only loneliness in the world,
and so the stone
was music,
raised his thin stature,
stood up to shout or sing,
but was speechless.
Only the wind
whip
the South Pole whistling,
only the white void
and a sound of rain bird
the castle of solitude.
and does not end:
there it all begins:
say goodbye to the rivers on the ice,
the air has been married to the snow,
there are no streets or horses
and the only building
was built of stone.
No one lives in the castle
or the lost
cold, cold wind that
frightened:
there is only loneliness in the world,
and so the stone
was music,
raised his thin stature,
stood up to shout or sing,
but was speechless.
Only the wind
whip
the South Pole whistling,
only the white void
and a sound of rain bird
the castle of solitude.
Pablo Neruda
I must admit that I approached the 11 day cruise aboard the MV Expedition with a certain amount of trepidation since in the past I have had problems with even the shortest journey by boat. The Drake Passage is renowned for being one of the roughest crossings in the world and our journey was to be no exception to the rule. During the two day crossing to the South Shetlands we would encounter waves of up to 7 metres and gale force winds. Avomine before sleeping prevented unpleasant symptoms and although I can’t say I enjoyed the turbulent conditions, I didn’t miss one of the excellent meals or a lecture!
MS EXPEDITION
MS EXPEDITION
The ship is a former Baltic sea car ferry built in Helsingor, Denmark in 1972 and refitted in Finland. The officers are for the most part from Eastern Europe and the crew from the Philippines. Both food and service are excellent and we are delighted with our spacious cabin with its large window from which there is an ever changing panorama of snow covered mountains, icebergs and a procession of sea birds including several species of albatross and petrels not to mention surfing penguins.
Pilar looked after our cabin and each night arranged my rather tatty pyjamas in an elegant arrangement befitting rather more attractive nightware. She also selected a book to lie invitingly on the pillow.
CABIN WINDOW VIEW
The 14th of December is the 100th anniversary of the first successful journey to the South Pole by Roald Amundsen and his team and today was a celebration of this amazing feat of bravery and endurance. 
Pilar looked after our cabin and each night arranged my rather tatty pyjamas in an elegant arrangement befitting rather more attractive nightware. She also selected a book to lie invitingly on the pillow.
Several of the lectures have discussed aspects of the attempts by Scott, Shackleton and Amundsen and it seemed fitting that our first landing on the ice should take place on this historic day.
After an early breakfast, we put on even more layers of clothing and embarked in the zodiacs for the beach. This was rather more challenging than the comparatively easy trips by zodiac in the Galapagos – a strong wind was howling over a choppy sea and we were soon covered in spray.
On the beach, hundreds of nesting Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins took very little notice of the visitors who walked carefully past the nests built of stones and pebbles. Observation of the birds revealed constant opportunistic theft of stones by neighbours and skuas who are active predators of eggs and chicks hovered around the colony.
That evening, a wonderful feast of traditiional Norwegian dishes was served, the recipes coming from expedition leader Susan’s mother.
The days continued to be full of interest and activity, zodiac trips to the shore or a cruise around the ice in search of wildlife. The activities catered for all tastes and a group of evangelical Christians focused on claiming each new destination for the Lord
The books we had bought remained untouched as excursions were followed by lectures, documentaries and outstanding meals. The following trip reports written by team members, describe each place visited and more details together with an outstanding slide show put together by Minke Matt can be seen on www.gadventures.com/marine/triplog-login/
The days continued to be full of interest and activity, zodiac trips to the shore or a cruise around the ice in search of wildlife. The activities catered for all tastes and a group of evangelical Christians focused on claiming each new destination for the Lord
The books we had bought remained untouched as excursions were followed by lectures, documentaries and outstanding meals. The following trip reports written by team members, describe each place visited and more details together with an outstanding slide show put together by Minke Matt can be seen on www.gadventures.com/marine/triplog-login/
username: antarctica111210
password: expedition
I salute your vertical salt
and envy your plumed pride"
Pablo Neruda - Art of Birds
MS Expedition
MS Expedition
John and David from Christchurch were great company during the trip and were able to turn their hands to many non medical jobs such as ensuring that everyone had their life jackets securely fastened
Aitcho Island & Deception Island Wednesday, 14 December, 2011
The wake-up call brought information about the high winds that were all around the South Shetland Islands as we anxiously waited to see where we could land. A scout boat was sent out to check out any possibility of making a landing where it was not dangerous, and they fortunately found a landing spot, so it was a GO. The groups landed at Aitcho Island where we were greeted by both Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins. All the action happening at once was amazing. Penguins were arriving from the water after feeding to return to their nest, some were making their way to the water.
Skuas were flying over the rookeries looking for a penguin egg to grab from the nest. On the way to the beach we found a group of Crabeater seals lounging on an ice-floe, taking very little notice of us. It was a great introduction to the wildlife of Antarctica as we stared in awe at what was going on, taking photos fast and furious. The winds were howling and the spray flying as we made our way back on the Zodiacs to the warmth of the ship. A great first excursion.
After leaving the area, a number of Humpback whales were spotted feeding nearby. It was great to get our first close up look of these magnificent whales using their tails and flukes to corral the krill closer together.
After leaving the area, a number of Humpback whales were spotted feeding nearby. It was great to get our first close up look of these magnificent whales using their tails and flukes to corral the krill closer together.
We were now making our way about 50 nautical miles to our afternoon landing area, a most
interesting geological spot called Port Foster inside Deception Island. We all came out to watch the ship enter through Neptune’s Bellows into the caldera of the volcano and see the remnants of an old whaling station on the shore. We were headed for the other end of Port Foster to our landing site, Telefon Bay, where we all hiked up to look over a crater which was created during a volcanic eruption in 1967.
It was a great view and a great hike as we made our way back to the ship in order to get ready for our next excursion, Pendulum Cove and our swimming hole for the brave and crazy. It was chaos on the beach as wave after wave of people took off in flight and dove into the freezing waters. Another huge number of swimmers bared the elements and went for it. Good job everyone. It was a huge day for activities and observing Antarctica; how appropriate on the 100th anniversary of a historical moment, where Roald Amundsen reached the South Pole on December 14th 1911. We are now making our way south, down the Bransfield Strait for another busy day tomorrow. The hits just keep on coming.
It was a great view and a great hike as we made our way back to the ship in order to get ready for our next excursion, Pendulum Cove and our swimming hole for the brave and crazy. It was chaos on the beach as wave after wave of people took off in flight and dove into the freezing waters. Another huge number of swimmers bared the elements and went for it. Good job everyone. It was a huge day for activities and observing Antarctica; how appropriate on the 100th anniversary of a historical moment, where Roald Amundsen reached the South Pole on December 14th 1911. We are now making our way south, down the Bransfield Strait for another busy day tomorrow. The hits just keep on coming.
Submitted by Scott MacPhail– Historian
Ferguson Channel, Port Lockroy Thursday, 15 December 2011
This morning we found ourselves in beautiful Ferguson Channel. Dramatic mountain scenery
was occasionally visible through an eerie veil of fog, clouds, and snow. After a lovely
breakfast we were ready to embark Zodiacs and sea kayaks, in which we explored the dark,
misty waters of Sturm Cove as a cold wind filled the air with large clumps of wet snow.
Because the seawater was below freezing (-1°C), the snow did not melt upon striking the surface. Rather it stayed frozen and became a kind of slush, which crumbled and sloshed beneath our Zodiacs and kayaks. We also saw new sea ice in the form of “grease ice”. At the other end of the ice sea life cycle we encountered old floes of broken-up fast ice. Upon one sturdy-looking floesome of us disembarked our Zodiacs and stood for a few exhilarating moments!
Mixed among the sea ice were brash ice, growlers, and bergy bits. This ice comes not from the sea but from the mighty glaciers that cloak the land and eventually calve into the sea. We were even lucky enough to witness one of the impressive calving events! Finally we encountered some truly massive icebergs. This is truly a world of ice!
Mixed among the sea ice were brash ice, growlers, and bergy bits. This ice comes not from the sea but from the mighty glaciers that cloak the land and eventually calve into the sea. We were even lucky enough to witness one of the impressive calving events! Finally we encountered some truly massive icebergs. This is truly a world of ice!
We had some nice wildlife sightings as well. Abundant Gentoo Penguins could be seen
swimming and porpoising in their search for krill. Some of us even had a quick glimpse of a
Minke Whale!
Back onboard we enjoyed another fantastic lunch while cruising the labyrinthine Neumayer Channel. Flanked on all sides by tidewater glaciers and virtually choked with huge icebergs, this mesmerizing passage kept us wondering which way our stalwart captain would turn next. Finally we arrived at our destination for the late afternoon: Port Lockroy, the site of a British research base and historical museum.
Back onboard we enjoyed another fantastic lunch while cruising the labyrinthine Neumayer Channel. Flanked on all sides by tidewater glaciers and virtually choked with huge icebergs, this mesmerizing passage kept us wondering which way our stalwart captain would turn next. Finally we arrived at our destination for the late afternoon: Port Lockroy, the site of a British research base and historical museum.
After an excellent presentation by the base staffwe were taken to shore in two groups. One group went to Jougla Point where we had a leisurely stroll amongst gregarious nesting Gentoo Penguins (some with chicks!) and Weddell Seals. Meanwhile the other group went to the British research “Base A” where Christmas shopping could be accomplished at the museum gift shop. After an hour or so we all switched places.
The kayakers also had an opportunity to explore the area by kayak. When we arrived back to M/S Expedition we found a large iceberg gently nuzzling up to the bow of the ship! It was already late so we sat down to a wonderful Indian themed dinner.
Submitted by Ian Jansma – Kayak Master
Lemaire Channel & Port Charcot, Booth Island Friday, 16 December
The weather was overcast and wet as we left our anchorage at Port Lockroy and headed south to see if it was possible to navigate the Lemaire Channel. As we approached the entrance to the passage, it cleared up enough for us to get an understanding of piece of navigation really is. We had two new guests with us this day, Kath and Cat from Lockroy, who were able to join us and see part of the peninsula they had not been able to visit before. We made it through this narrow and then ran into a wall of ice as we exited and turned south. Captain Asparuh maneuvered the ship in the ice and let it surround us and then turned off the engines to allow us to see and hear the world of ice. A number of seals were spotted on some floes as well as a few penguins as we admired a scene of compacted pack ice, very few of us have or will ever see again. Ice is nice as the saying goes, and at this time of year we are lucky to encounter the pack, which had frustrated explorers and Captains who attempted to penetrate this moving world of ice. This was our furthest south of the trip, 65 degrees 08 minutes. We left the pack and made our way west to Port Charcot, a historic site where in 1903 the French expedition under Jean-Baptiste Charcot (1867-1937) wintered over and completed many scientific studies as well as mapping and naming a huge area of the peninsula. Wet snow was falling during the landing and we all got soaked making our way back to the ship, and home to a nice cup of hot tea.
Soon after leaving our landing spot, we made our way about a mile south just outside of
Pleneau Island for a Zodiac cruise. We all made our way to the shore to watch the Gentoo
penguins and stare at the many sculptures of ice that were grounded near the shore. As we
moved about the large icebergs a call soon came out that an Orca whale had been spotted.
We all raced toward the area and were treated to two Killer whales travelling along in their
search for food. We were able to follow the two male whales, one being a very large male with its huge dorsal fin and marveled at the grace and beauty of these magnificent animals
We all came back so happy that our persistence of going out even when the weather is not
so nice proved to be fruitful. To see an Orca in Antarctica is such an amazing event.
The evening was full of stories on our return and during dinner.
We returned to Port Lockroy to drop off Cat and Kath, and stayed the evening in this
protected harbour for the night, before setting off for our next day’s adventure.
Submitted by Scott MacPhail – Historian
Danco Island, Orne Harbor Saturday, 17 December, 2011
Expedition Leader Susan Adieʼs mellifluous tones gently coaxed us from slumber, “Good
morning ladies and gentlemen. The time is 6:30am on Saturday December 17th. The sky is
partially overcast, the sun is shining, and visibility is good. We are currently experiencing
steady Force 8 winds over 40 knots with gusts over 50 in the Gerlache Strait. No Zodiac
excursion or landing is possible under these conditions. We shall keep you updated, and
once again Good Morning.”Ah, Gale force winds! And this was no fly-by squall. These winds were steady, part of a larger system. The MS Expedition now sat on the back side of a low pressure cell. Atmospheric pressure cells in the southern hemisphere rotate in a clockwise direction. Therefore, the winds, relative to our position, were coming from the south in a bracing, biting fashion. They were steady at 40-45 knots, with gusts up to 60 knots. This was no racethrough squall. These winds would sustain for some time. With the morn also came increased visibility. The sun shined through a patchwork of cirrus, altostratus, and cumulus clouds. High above was a blanket of blue. As we cruised slowly through the Gerlache Strait the rugged icecovered mountains of the peninsulaʼs heart were exposed in all their stately glory. Our first days in Antarctica were shrouded in wind, rain, thick mist, and heavy snow. Excursions had been made, but there was no context. We had been but not seen. The winds still persisted, but now the Peninsula was finally visible. In such winds options were limited. Expedition Leader Susan Adie had to hatch a plan of some sort. Paramount was finding a place, any place out of the wind. She decided to make way into the Errera Channel in the hope that Ronǵ́́é Island would offer a lee. It did. Back in the channelʼs belly sits a relatively low ice-covered slab of rock. From its shores, ice and snow slope gently to a broad, lightly-rounded summit some 160 meters above the sea. This was our morningʼs destination.
Gentoo Penguins occupied the few rocky outcrops on Danco Islandʼs western flank. Many of
us opted for a walk to the islandʼs summit. It offers one of the most accessible and finest
views in the region. The islandʼs of Rongé and Cuverville filled in the west and southwest,
while the north and east were defined by the mighty rock and glaciers of the Peninsula itself.
The afternoon brought a unique slice of the Antarctic Peninsula to the forefront. The MS Expedition cruised into rarely viewed Orne Harbor. This bilobed indentation on the eastern side of the Gerlache sees few visitors. It offers virtually nothing in the way of landing sites. And its guaranteed wildlife highlights (ie. penguin rookeries, shag colonies) are few. Its edges are almost completely defined by walls of ice that drop steeply into the sea. Yet, it is an intimate place, confined and compressed, perfect for a Zodiac cruise or a leisurely kayak.
Winds came off the glacier faces to the east with some punch. So, most Zodiacs made way
to a region of icebergs and brash ice pushed against Orne Harborʼs southern wall. It was in
this matrix of mixed ice that groups of Crabeater seals were found. Kayaks and rubber boats
alike were afforded close views of the animals. They were hardly disturbed by our presence.
Our time with them was a personal encounter indeed, the kind of signature experience that
all who travel to the great white continent rarely if ever forget should they be so fortunate to
share time with members of this unique animal nation.
Submitted by John Kernan, Naturalist
Neko Harbour & Paradise Harbour Sunday, 18 December, 2011
We stayed at anchor overnight off Danco Island with the campers happily ashore at RongeIsland on a very calm night, creating superb conditions with a stunning sunrise through the haze, the sun reflecting off the sea, the ice and the snow covered mountains.
The ship then headed into Andvord Bay for our morning landing at Neko Harbour, our first continental landing in one of the most impressive locations in the peninsula where huge glaciers tumble down off the polar plateau. It is also the site of a Gentoo Penguin rookery and was a great place to sit and relax and soak up the Antarctic scenery and the penguins. Many were incubating two eggs, but a few were still making nests and building up the stones, probably younger birds returning to the colony for the first time. There was also the chance to Zodiac cruise and kayak amongst the ice and bergs that had been blown into the bay or carved off the glacier.
LEOPARD SEAL
At least one Leopard Seal was seen on an ice floe whilst a lucky few had a Minke Whale swimming around and even under their Zodiac. Back on board a few brave (or mad!) souls celebrated their landing on the continent by taking a polar plunge from the gangway. We then headed out of Andvord Bay through brash ice and icebergs, before coming across one huge old tabular berg that has been in the area for several years, slowly eroding away. Thanks to the expertise of our Captain Asparuh Chorbadzhiev we circled around the huge berg and were able to see crevasses, ice caves and iceberg tongues up close. We then sailed through the narrow channel near the Chilean base on Water Boat Point known as Gonzalez Videla and into the aptly named Paradise Harbour, surrounded by mountains and glaciers.
LEOPARD SEAL
At least one Leopard Seal was seen on an ice floe whilst a lucky few had a Minke Whale swimming around and even under their Zodiac. Back on board a few brave (or mad!) souls celebrated their landing on the continent by taking a polar plunge from the gangway. We then headed out of Andvord Bay through brash ice and icebergs, before coming across one huge old tabular berg that has been in the area for several years, slowly eroding away. Thanks to the expertise of our Captain Asparuh Chorbadzhiev we circled around the huge berg and were able to see crevasses, ice caves and iceberg tongues up close. We then sailed through the narrow channel near the Chilean base on Water Boat Point known as Gonzalez Videla and into the aptly named Paradise Harbour, surrounded by mountains and glaciers.
Here we had our second landing on the continent at the Argentinean base Almirante Brown,
also home to a small Gentoo Penguin rookery. Many walked up through the snow to enjoy
the stunning view of Paradise Harbour from the top of the peak above the station.
It was also a chance for our 2nd Zodiac cruise of the day, passing steep lichen cliffs with Blue-eyed Shags breed, some already with chicks. There were also Weddell Seals on ice floes and the Zodiacs exploring one of the glacier edges heard what sounded like the eerie other worldly call of the Weddell Seal. However, it turned out to be even more bizarre, the atmospheric and harmonic sound made by glacial ice under immense pressures. And another memorable day in ʻparadiseʼ ended with our Filipino night, with great food followed by music and songs with some of the crew in the Polar Bear bar.
It was also a chance for our 2nd Zodiac cruise of the day, passing steep lichen cliffs with Blue-eyed Shags breed, some already with chicks. There were also Weddell Seals on ice floes and the Zodiacs exploring one of the glacier edges heard what sounded like the eerie other worldly call of the Weddell Seal. However, it turned out to be even more bizarre, the atmospheric and harmonic sound made by glacial ice under immense pressures. And another memorable day in ʻparadiseʼ ended with our Filipino night, with great food followed by music and songs with some of the crew in the Polar Bear bar.
Submitted by Kevin Morgan – Naturalist
Hannah Point to Half Moon Island Monday, 19 December, 2011
There is a Bulgarian research station on the south west coast of Livingston Island that nopassenger vessel has ever visited before, our adventurous Captain and Expedition Leaderteamed up to try and change this. Cruising off with high hopes and two boxes of fresh fruit and veggies, they entered the unknown hoping for a new experience for the passengers.Unfortunately we arrived on the only day of the season where the station was on change over, and there would be no time for a visit. All was not a loss though, as G Adventures acquired a new connection for future Expeditions.
SURFING PENGUINS
As always Susan was ready with her back up plan, a wonderful wildlife cruise at Hannah Point on Livingston Island. One and two year old elephant seals were on shore displaying many of their attractive qualities; blubber jiggling, penguin bowling, belching, even mountain climbing. The obese seals were surrounded by all kinds of other wild life; nesting gentoo penguins with their chicks,hungry scavenging Skuas, chinstrap penguins, nesting giant petrels and pintados (cape petrels). Watching the protective Gentoos chase each other across the hill gave everyone a good laugh.
After all the sights were seen at Hannah point, the ship weighed anchor and we set off with
our sights set on Half Moon Island. The cruise was sublime, sun poking through the clouds
with tame smooth seas, perfect weather for spotting a whale. Low and behold WHALES,
four humpbacks in total, rising and diving no more than a mile off the ship. Once we honed
our search in we found a calf playing on the surface a mere 15 meters from the ship, rolling
on his side exposing large pectoral fins, and continuously coming to the surface spy hopping.
We continued along after the whale started to move away from us, not wanting to pursue or
encroach on its space. Whale watching enhanced our afternoon but, the hour was getting late for our final landing, we postponed dinner by an hour and a half and took toland and water to explore our final destination. The fog that had descended around Half Moon Island and the ship, gave the feeling of enchantment with slight twinge of foreboding. This was to be our last landing for this trip, and many were feeling a little sad at the prospect of leaving such a wonderous continent. Everyone took the opportunity to enjoy the last chinstrap colony, the last iceberg, the last pintado, and the last zodiac cruise… Farewell Antarctica!
Submitted by Andrew Akehurst – Assistant Kayak / Zodiac Driver
Drake Passage, Northbound Tuesday, 20 December 2011
Last night, we made our final landing in Antarctica. After only seven days visiting this extraordinary land, a few folks lingered near the gangway with tears of sadness; an indication of how quickly and deeply Antarctica grasps our hearts. Every one of us had a personal reason to visit here, but we all share the same reluctance to leave.
Today, the MS EXPEDITION is steaming back across the Drake Passage, making about 12 knots in relatively calm seas and an easy NW breeze. The gossip thismorning around the breakfast tables considered this question: “Is this what they call the Drake Lake?” Perhaps, but we are warned to speak cautiously about this blessing in fear we may jinx it and suffer the consequences. We still have another full day before reaching the protected Beagle Channel.
LIGHT MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS
LIGHT MANTLED SOOTY ALBATROSS
PINTADO OR CAPE PETRELS
The wind sails the open sea
guided by the albatross,
that glides, falls,dances, climbs,
hangs motionless in the fading light
touches the crest of the wave,
settles in the raging elements
of the turbulent ocean
while the salt crowns him with laurels
and the furious foam sighs,
skims the waves
with his great symphonic wings
leaving over the storm
a book that flies on forever:
the statute of the wind.
Pablo Neruda
“The Wandering Albatross”
BLACK BROWED ALBATROSS
The mild weather creates opportunities for going out on deck to watch Albatross, Cape
Petrels, Prions and other birds as they create an avian escort back to the Antarctic
Convergence, the biological border of Antarctic waters. Someone sights two large whale
spouts off our port side, but we donʼt get close enough for a positive ID. Whichever kind of
whale they are, itʼs a reminder that the first Antarctic explorers were hunting whales for
blubber; we are part of a new generation of explorers, coming here in ships just to enjoy the
sight of them migrating to distant oceans.
The afternoon is spent trading pictures and stories with so many new friends on board ship.
“Did you see the Elephant Seal climbing that hill?” “No, but we had a Minkie Whale right
under our Zodiac!” The expedition team posts an email sharing list, and most of the
passengers join in so we can keep in touch after the trip. Before dinner, Osi sets up an auction to raise money for “Save the Albatross”. Souvenirs from the voyage are offered up to the highest bidder. Some items are silly reminders of the crazy antics the staff has entertained us with, such as a homemade FUD (Female Urinary Director) seen here. Other items are more like real treasures; the ships flag flown from the bow and signed by the Captain was won after some rowdy bidding. A nautical chart of the Antarctic Peninsula waters, carefully marked with our precise track and where the ship stopped for each landing, brings the top dollar.
As evening progresses, it seems that the Drake will continue to lie down for us, and we bring some cocktails out on the decks and contemplate the endless horizon surrounding the ship. We have had full week of excitement, and this eveningʼs sunset leaves us all wondering where G Adventures might take us next.
Submitted by Doug Gould – Zodiac Master
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