A collection of old cars is scattered around, many in a poor state of repair and obviously purely for decoration.
With a hire car for 5 days we decided to head towards the Atlantic coast. The roads are good and traffic seems light. It was surprising to find that the landscape seemed almost identical to the rather flat and somewhat drab area south of Perth complete with faded grass and endless eucalypt trees forming windbreaks and plantations. We bypassed Punte del Este, a beach resort complete with high rise buildings and stayed instead at Jose Ignacio, once a fishing village and now full of trendy modern architect designed holiday homes.
PUNTE DIABOLO
Punte Diabolo is a rustic village much favoured by travellers with good beaches and small restaurants serving fish. We stayed overnight in an excellent hostel before travelling on to the estancia Guadia del Monte. The two days spent at this peaceful and secluded house were a delight and we realized how much we needed a break from constant travelling.
The enclosed courtyard of Guardia del Monte showing the well which collected water chanelled from the roof
Ten km from the road along a narrow track, the house sits on a small hill above the Lago Castillo. The original part of the house dates back to 1780 when it was built as one of three guard posts along the old royal road which lead north towards the border controlled by the Portuguese in what was to become Brazil. In 1715, the land was surveyed by Englishman, William Toller whose diary includes drawings showing the ombu forest and the presence of palm trees along the lake shore at that time.
There are also depictions of birds and animals including cattle on the property. Materials salvaged from some of the more than 100 wrecked ships have been used in the construction of the house including roof tiles from Marseilles and wooden beams. An enormous cast iron stove, manufactured in Copenhagen, from the English ship Gainford, wrecked in 1885 sits in the old kitchen.
The ombu forest is said to be the only one remaining in the world although individual trees exist in neighbouring countries. Many of the existing trees are up to 300 years old and their great spreading trunks are completely hollow.
The native trees are one reason for the proliferation of birdlife and the lagoon, connected to the sea by a narrow channel, is home to many species of waterbirds. On a sedate ride through the pasture and swampy margins of the lake, we encountered storks, flamingos, roseate spoonbills, white necked and swans and migrant waders.
The enclosed courtyard of Guardia del Monte showing the well which collected water chanelled from the roof
Ten km from the road along a narrow track, the house sits on a small hill above the Lago Castillo. The original part of the house dates back to 1780 when it was built as one of three guard posts along the old royal road which lead north towards the border controlled by the Portuguese in what was to become Brazil. In 1715, the land was surveyed by Englishman, William Toller whose diary includes drawings showing the ombu forest and the presence of palm trees along the lake shore at that time.
There are also depictions of birds and animals including cattle on the property. Materials salvaged from some of the more than 100 wrecked ships have been used in the construction of the house including roof tiles from Marseilles and wooden beams. An enormous cast iron stove, manufactured in Copenhagen, from the English ship Gainford, wrecked in 1885 sits in the old kitchen.
The ombu forest is said to be the only one remaining in the world although individual trees exist in neighbouring countries. Many of the existing trees are up to 300 years old and their great spreading trunks are completely hollow.
The native trees are one reason for the proliferation of birdlife and the lagoon, connected to the sea by a narrow channel, is home to many species of waterbirds. On a sedate ride through the pasture and swampy margins of the lake, we encountered storks, flamingos, roseate spoonbills, white necked and swans and migrant waders.
FLAMINGO
STORK
SPOONBILL
40 horses are kept on the property which is popular with people doing riding tours and birdwatchers. There are also 700 head of cattle and sheep. Saddles are covered in sheepskin which is soft and comfortable
Several two year old horses were being broken in during our stay
AN OLD SIDE SADDLE
VINCENT WITH ALICIA, OWNER OF GUARDIA DEL MONTE
On the 450km drive back to Colonia groups of rheas could sometimes be seen together with the common a scavenger.
Back in Colonia after the long drive we lost no time in finding the highly recommended wine bar El Suspiro which offers a wide range of wine from Uruguay by the glass or bottle at very reasonable prices accompanied by picadas - plates of local cheeses and charcuterie. Vincent pronounced the wine excellent and had several glasses followed by a couple of glasses of local grappa for good measure!
Stayed there myself with Alicia a couple of years back. She was delightful and the place was so restful. A real treasure. We were there
ReplyDeletebirding and there were birds aplenty!