CHILE

CHILE

Night, snow and sand make up the form

of my thin country
all silence lies in its thin line

              Pablo Neruda, from "Descubridores de Chile” 1950 

Chile is a country I that have wanted to visit ever since I first heard Andean music in the 60's. Later, after the 1973 coup, we worked with the Amnesty medical group and became more aware of the political situation at that time.

After a flight from Ushuaia it was a 5 hour journey by bus from El Calafate in Argentina to Puerto Natales in Chile.  Later that day we travelled north across the  pampa and stopped briefly at the Cueva del Miladon, a 30 metre high cave where in the1890's the partial remains of a giant sloth were found.  The slow moving, herbiverous milodon, which stood 4 metres tall, was hunted to extinction by early human nomads from the north.

In his iconic book In Patagonia, Bruce Chatwin recalls how he was fascinated from early childhood by a scrap of giant sloth skin kept in glass fronted cabinet at his grandmother's house.  The skin, covered in organge hair, had been sent from his eccentric sea faring relative Charley Milward who was living in Punta Arenas.  The book, a masterpiece of travel writing and indispensible companion for the Patagonian traveller, describes his journey from Buenos Aires to the Cueva del Miladon in the early 70's.

                                    TORRES DEL PAINE

 After a long drive past several glacial lakes we reached Eco Camp Patagonia situated in the heart of the Torres del Paine National Park. At 181,000 hectares this is arguably one of the finest national parks in South America and over 200000 people visit the area each year, many to hike the 7 day W track or the longer Paine circuit.

                                         LAGO PEHOE

The Torres del Paine (towers of Paine) are spectacular granite pillars flanked by the summit of Paine Grande and the sharp tusks of black sedimentary peaks known as Los Cuernos (The Horns). Trails meander alongside rivers, glaciers and azure lakes.  Wild flowers including many species of orchids grow in this fragile environment where the weather is often unpredictable.  During our visit the sun shone and the mountains were clearly visible.

                                         LOS CUERNOS

 The yurts are situated directly beneath the towers with wonderful views towards the mountains and celebrating Christmas here proved to be an excellent choice with perfect weather during our three day stay.  On arrival we were greeted with the traditional Chilean drink, pisco sour before an excellent dinner with Chilean wine served in one of the large core yurts.

The camp is the first fully sustainable accommodation south of the Amazon and the first of its kind in the Patagonian wilderness.  Solar panels are used to obtain 40% of the energy used and a micro hydro turbine to obtain 60%. and recycling and composting are also used

                                 THE TORRES (TOWERS)

.
The organization’s literature states that “the basic premise in designing Eco Camp was to maintain the nomadic spirit of Patagonia’s ancient Kaweskar  inhabitants”.  The name Kaweskar means “human being” in their native language. They made few demands on natural resources as they travelled from place to place, setting up and dismantling their semi circular huts built from simple materials.  The communities had  no hierarchy and there was an established moral and ethical code which involved a deep, spiritual relationship with God. Sadly, in a tale repeated across Latin America, by 1880 European settlers had arrived in Patagonia in their quest for gold, furs and wool and had displaced, slaughtered and brought disease to the Kaweskars who became almost completely extinct by the 1920’s.

                                   THE FRENCH VALLEY

 

The following day’s walk of 15km  towards French valley began with a trip by catamaran along Lake Pehoe and passed beneath towering mountains with a view  of the towers always in the distance.  We walked through fagus (beech) woodlands  full of wild flowers including several species of orchids and saw condors soaring high above the mountain tops.

                          ORCHIDS - TORRES DEL PAINE

  A picnic lunch was much appreciated once we reached the foot of the glacier before turning  to catch the ferry back.  Our guide Alessandro proved very knowledgeable about birds, plants and the history of this beautiful area.

On Christmas Day, we opted for a shorter excursion of around 5 hours over the steppe towards a lookout and back through a secluded green marsh area which was good for bird watching.

                               THE BUFF NECKED IBIS

                                   AUSTRAL THRUSH

 Part of Unesco’s  Biosphere Reserve since 1978, the park shelters flocks of  rheas, Andean condors, flamingos and one of the outstanding conservation success stories the guanaco which grazes the open steppes where it’s predator, the puma, cannot approach  undetected.

Sadly, after leaving Torres del Paine, we learned that a large area of the park was on fire and that all visitors had been evacuated.  The park is now closed for at least a month during the main holiday period.  This is probably due to careless use of fire by campers and is a tragedy for the park, the wildlife and all the people employed there.

 On Boxing Day we returned to Puerto Natales and boarded the Navimag ferry Evangelistas for the three day voyage through the Chilean fiords to Puerto Monte. The ferry, which transports goods and livestock, passes through uninhabited fiords and close encounters with glaciers and wildlife. It passes through Aisen’s maze of narrow channels and navigates the Aangostura Inglesea, a passage so confined that the ship seems to graze the shoreline on both sides.

The voyage proved to be very quiet and smooth after the Drake although the cabin was rather more basic. The first day was overcast and wet obscuring the view of the Skua glacier although navigation through the narrow channels (some only 80metres wide) was worth braving the icy wind.

 Day 2 was sunny and we dropped anchor at the remote village of Puerto Eden, a remote fishing port and last outpost of the Qawashqar tribe, to deliver supplies and mail. Snow covered mountains formed a backdrop to virgin forest and the flightless steamer duck could be seen speeding though the water and South American terns surrounded the ship. The ship then left the shelter of the fiords to make the 12 hour crossing of the Golfo de Penas where passing minke whales, Magellenic penguins  and black browed albatross could be seen.  On day 3 the sun came out and we passed islets where sea lions jostled with birds for space and a snow clad volcano dominated the skyline.

                      Sea Lions and birds - Patagonian fiords

              Abandoned ship occupied by South American terns

New Year's Eve was celebrated at Puerto Varas, a pleasant town on the shore of Lago Llanquehue, with a dinner of king crab, strawberries and Chilean sauvignon blanc. 

We now have wheels - indispensible in this land of national parks.  The vehicle is an elderly white ute, noisy and uncomfortable and known as El Monsterio Blanco.  Vincent was a little disturbed by the groaning of the engine and crashing gears but now seems to have got the hang of driving it.
                                    OSORNO VOLCANO

German immigrants, especially tradesmen and farmers, played an important part in settling the area around Llanquehui and our first excursion was to Frutillar, a small village along the lake with meticulously preserved German architecture.

                            Museo Historico Colonial Aleman

The immigrants arrived in the 1840's following a failed democratic revolution in Germany in response to the Chilean government's invitation to settle land around the lake following the failed Mapuche uprising.  They thrived in the familar landscape of lakes, mountains and forests and organized schools, established industries and built infrastructure such as churches and other public buildings that still stand.

As Pablo Neruda wrote of his childhood in the frontier, "In time, everything crumbled and everyone was left as poor as before.  Only the Germans kept a stubborn hold on their assetts, and that singled them out in the hinterlands"  Their influence is still strong today and we couldn't resist a Sunday morning coffee and kuchen!

CHILOE ISLAND

Chiloe island is separated from the mainland by a narrow stretch of water and is often shrouded in rain and mist.  The climate and a tradition of seafaring has shaped life on the island for centuries.  The sun shone during our 3 day visit and we were able to explore some interesting and out of the way places.  Chiloe is best know for its quaint wooden houses or palafitos built on stilts over the water and we stayed at the beautifully restored Palafito Hostel.

The first colonial settlements on the island were established in 1567 and the indigenous population, a blend of Huilliches and Chonos, was soon decimated by European diseases. 

CHURCH AT CHONCHI

Chiloe is famous for its wooden churches almost 8o of which were built by the Jesuits before their expulsion from the Spanish Empire in 1767.  16 churches were added to UNESCO's World Heritage list in 2000.  Since they are built of wood, most of the historic churches escaped damage in the earthquakes and eruptions which are a fact  of life along the Pacific rim

EL MONSTERO BLANCO

We rented this venerable ute at great expense to take us up unpaved roads where no ordinary vehicle could be expected to go.  Named El Monstero Blanco, it performed very well and never failed to struggle up horrible tracks and ford streams with much chugging of the engine.  From the beginning we gave people lifts in the tray, a custom in remote areas.

          BOAT BRIDGE IN THE CHILOE NATIONAL PARK

On our first day we drove out along the length of the beautiful Lake Huillinco to the Parque nacional Chiloe to the indigenous Huilliiche village of Cucao with its colourful church.  Many familiar flowers bloomed along the road including foxgloves, elderflower and the ever present blackberry

CHURCH BUILT OF ALERCE SHINGLES

A visit to the smaller Isla Quinchao involved a short ferry crossing from Dalcahue.  Along the shore we came across flocks of migrant birds mainly whimbrle and Hudsonian godwits with some American oystercatchers.

WHIMBREL

SOUTHERN CRESTED CARACARAS

HUDSONIAN GODWITS

TRADITIONAL HOUSE, ISLA QUICHAO 

These traditional houses, built of alerce shingles, are seen all over Chiloe.  The alerce has been heavily logged and large trees are now uncommon except in the national parks

MAR Y VELAS RESTAURANT, ACHAO

CURANTO  - A FISH STEW

ENSENADA

We reached Ensenada by a circuitous route around the Reloncai estuary which involved driving south on the iconic Carretera Austral and a half hour crossing of the estuary to the south side.  The road was challenging but eventually we reached our destination for the next three days, Fox Hill

Ensenada is a small settlement on the south side of Lake Llanquihui and Fox Hill is a beautiful new house owned and built by Jim and Irena Hanson using a variety of native Chilean wood for the cabinet work and furniture.   The house affords wonderful views of several volcanoes, among them Osorno.  A paved road runs for several km up the volcano to the base of the small ski lift and continuing up on the lift allows you to reach the lava flow. 

FORESTED LOWER SLOPES OF OSORNO

LAVA FIELD

Thefirst part of the ski lift was working and we were able to reach the lava field just below the snow line.  Many smaller craters could easily be seen including the red crater

RED CRATER

Laterin the day we visited the Cafe Belleview for onces, a high tea of German origin which is very popular in Chile.  Everything served was produced on the farm including cheese, salami and bread and the amazing kuchen

                         LLAMAS AT CAFE BELLEVIEW

The following day we drove back to the Cochamo valley and walked for a couple of hours along a trail which led through wonderful scenery up to the border with Argentina.  A hundred years ago this route was used by Argentina ranchers to drive their cattle to the coast.  Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid are said to be among their number

       CHIMANGO CARACARA, A CARRION EATING FALCON

That evening we had the pleasure of joining Jim and Irina together with their neighbours for dinner at Fox Hill

NEW BORN ALPACA AT FOX HILL

                                 THE HUA HUM FERRY

The Hua Hum ferry carries vehicles and passengers along the length of the long and narrow scenic Lago Pirihueico to the Hua Hum pass to Argentina

HOTEL AT HUILO HUILO

LA MONTANA MAGICA HOTEL

HUA HUM FALLS

                                           PUMA FALLS

SAN MARTIN DE LOS ANDES

Back in Argentina for a few days at San Martin de los Andes we stayed with a German couple who had emigrated to Argentina and opened a B&B specializing in organizing mountain bike tours in the rugged surrounding forest and mountains.  They had plenty of experience in this area having cycled from California to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego along the whole length of the Pan American highwayand the Carratera Austral not to mention a circuit of NZ

TROUT LUNCH 

ARID BACK ROADS OF THE LANIN NATIONAL PARK

                           LAGO LACAR, SAN MARTIN

SHRINE TO GAUCHO GIL

These shrines are found all over Argentina and are erected in homage to the semi mythical Gauchito Gil, a king of 19th century Robin Hood who robbed the rich to help the poor.  He has been credited with numerous miracles and the shrines appear as a collection of red flags and cancles and bottles of water. 

               ARAUCARIA (MONKEY PUZZLE) TREES

As we approached the border between Argentina and Chile, the hills became less arid and an impressive area of araucaria trees came into view.  I remember this tree, known as the monkey puzzle, from my childhood in England.  It is now a protected species and can reach a great age of up to 1000 years.  The trees attain a pyramid shape by 100 years after which they develop an umbrella shape

ARAUCARIA TREES BENEATH VOLCAN LANIN

THE CHILEAN SIDE OF THE BORDER

OSORNO VOLCANO FROM THE NATIONAL PARK

ALERCE

WATERFALL HUERQUEHUE PARK

LA BICYCLETA HOSTEL CAFE

In Pucon we stayed at La Bicycleta, a modest hostel with excellent food served at its pavement cafe with a view of the smoking Villarica volcano.  We had a great day out in the Huerquehue      National Park, known for its 12500  hectares of rivers, watefalls, alpine lakes and araucaria forest.  We climbed to the waterfall through a forest of ancient alerce with wonderful views to the Villarica volcano.  The following day El Monstero Blanco went back to Puerte Varas and we caught the overnight bus to Santiago

SANTIAGO

CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA

                       POLICE IN THE PLAZA DE ARMAS

FISH MARKET

The impressive market offers a wide variety of well priced fish and shellfish included in the centolla, the king crab from the south of Chile.  The cost of this huge crab in Santiago is very much more than we paid in Ushuaia or Puerto Varas.  The market has many seafood restaurants and cafes offering traditional dishes one  of which is Pastel de Choclo made of ground corn and basil and sometimes beef or chicken, onions, olives and hard boiled eggs.  Ceviche, raw marinated fish, is also usually on the menu

CENTOLLA

PASTEL DE CHOCLO

IGLESIA DE SAN FRANCISCO

This church, begun in 1572, is Santiago's oldest surviving colonial building having weathered several powerful earthquakes

On the main alter hangs a 27cm high carving of the Virgen del Socorro which Pedro de Valdivia took to Chile on his 1540 conquistador mission to protect him from attacks

BARRIO BELLAVISTA

PABLO NERUDA 1904 - 1973

The Chilean poet, diplomat, collector and Nobel prize winner, Pablo Neruda led a flamboyant life with a taste for the quirky and unusual.  He built gloriously witty and creative homes in Santiago, Valparaiso and Isla Negra which housed his many collections of art, books, maritime objects and numerous

 other quirky pieces.  Photography is not allowed in any of the houses so only photos from the outside are included here.

LA CHASCONA

La Chascona was named after his third wife Matilde Urrutla's unruly hair.  It was shaped like a boat and like all his houses it was  filled with sea faring memorabilia

                                  THE OUTDOOR BAR

The power of Neruda's political poems was feared by the Pinochet regime who set about trying to wipe out his memory.  His homes were sacked and vandalized and the library at La Chascona was destroyed. 

Neruda was nominated as a presidential candidate but stood aside to allow Salvador Allende to become the sole contender for the party

 Many paintings, gifts from such friends as Picasso, Kahlo, Ribera and Violeta Parra disappeared and only a fraction of the original collection remains.  Neruda himself died days after the coup leaving everything to the Chilean people.  His widow Matilde lovingly restored the houses which are now an important part of the national cultural heritage

LA SEBASTIANA

Pablo Neruda was also a diplomat who represented Chile in many countries including France, Mexico and Spain where he was a great friend of Garcia Lorca.  He constantly expanded his collections with pieces from all over the world.  His house in Valparaiso, La Sebastiano was in the form of a tower with steep stairs and expansive views over the harbour

ISLA NEGRA

This house, built on a rocky headland, was Neruda's favourite home.  He was in residence at the time of the coup and as a result the house and contents remain intact.  Again, there is a very strong sense of his love for the sea with a fine collection of ship's figureheads and other fittings

Whenever Neruda arrived home to Isla Negra he would ring the ships's bell to let his friends,many of whom had built houses in the area, know that he had returned.  It is said that he never dined alone and that his entertaining was legendary.  The collections of tableware (mainly English) cutlery and glassware can be seen at each house 

OUTDOOR BAR

In 1992, Pablo Neruda and Matilde were reburied at Isla Negra according to his last wishes

"Comrades, bury me in Isla Negra facing the sea that I know.....

I want to be swept down in the rains that the wild sea wind assails and shatters and then to flow through subterranean channels towards the deep springtime that is reborn"

from Disposiciones

THE TOMB OF PRESIDENT SALVADOR ALLENDE

Salvador Allende was elected to power in 1970 becoming the world's first democratically elected Marxist president.  On September 11, 1973 with backing fromthe CIA Pinochet launched a golpe de estado (coup d'etat) which resulted in Allende's death and the death of thousands of his leftist supporters.  Many were herded into Santiago's National Stadium where they suffered beatings, torture and execution among them Chilean folk legend Victor Jara.

MEMORIAL DEL DETENIDO DESPARECIDO Y DEL EJECUTADO POLITICO

This memorial to the thousands of victims of the Pinochet regime stands in the Cementario Generale.  Some bodies were found  in mass graves and are buried here.  Many of the people named were young men and women in their teens and twenties.  Children born in detention were given to military families.

VALPARAISO

 A name to be conjured with in the history of seafaring, Valparaiso was an important port for for sailing ships rounding Cape Horn and became a commercial centre for the entire Pacific coast.   In 1906 a major earthquake destroyed many downtown buildings and the construction of the Panama canal was a further economic blow.

                                 PLAZA SOTOMAYOR

From the port and the flat city centre, ancient ascensores (funicular elevators) creak at improbably angles up to a very different city above.

The tumbling cerros (hills) with their steep roads, faded mansions and brightly painted houses constructed from corrugated iron provide wonderful vistas of the bay below.  There is a bohemian atmosphere with endless murals and decoration of buildings, cafes and bars.

                 CINZANO DE VALPARAISO, DESDE 1896

The Cinzano bar has been an institution in Valparaiso for over 100 years and the group of musicians playing tango have been performing there for over 20 years

                         ONE TOO MANY PISCO SOURS!

                       STREET SCENES IN VALPARAISO

REFUGIO LO VALDEZ

 Our last few days were spent at the Refugio Lo Valdez built in the 1930's by the Club Aleman Andean as a lodge for skiing and hiking by the Chilean German community.  The lodge lies as the end of the dramatically scenic Cajon de Maipo beneath the San Jose volcano which attracts climbers from all over the world.  The Andes are clearly visible from Santiago and attract hikers and climbers from the city at weekends.